The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon is a remarkable wristwatch that pays homage to the brand's rich history and the legendary Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch. This masterpiece, co-directed by Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, is a testament to the brand's resurgence in 2025. The UJ-1 is not merely a wristwatch version of the Oval; it's a meticulous reconstruction and miniaturization of Pratt's movement, adapted for the wrist. The challenge was to preserve the Oval's architecture while transforming it into a 30mm wristwatch calibre, requiring the relocation of the winding and hand-setting mechanism to the dial side.
One of the UJ-1's standout features is its one-minute flying tourbillon and integrated remontoir d'égalité. The tourbillon, with its asymmetrical three-arm geometry, is more functional than decorative, and the remontoir d'égalité ensures a consistent release of energy, providing a precise seconds display. The power reserve mechanism, inspired by marine chronometry, showcases a unique cone-and-feeler system, adding to the watch's complexity and historical connection to precision chronometers.
The UJ-1's finishing is exceptional, with broad surfaces frosted with a fine metal brush and a triple colimaçonnage spiral decoration inspired by Voutilainen's work on the original Oval. The dial, manufactured by Comblémine, features traditional flinqué guilloché techniques and a Decimal Time display, paying homage to Jules Jürgensen's 1867 creation. The case, available in 950 platinum or 5N rose gold, showcases a new Urban Jürgensen design with short, sharply defined lugs.
Despite its high price tag of CHF 368,000, the UJ-1 is a compelling statement piece. It's not just a tourbillon with a remontoir; it's a meticulous reconstruction of Pratt's movement, redesigned for the wrist and decorated to an almost unreasonable degree. The UJ-1 is a fascinating tourbillon that showcases the brand's commitment to preserving history and pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.
